Stainless steel is more corrosion resistant. Galvanized rope is easier to inspect for corrosion damage. Galvanized rope has greater fatigue strength. Each type has its advantages and disadvantages. General aviation aircraft generally use control cable made from either stainless steel or galvanized steel. I would not worry about using stainless vs galvanized but either will certainly serve the purpose. ![]() There really is minimal movement of the cable over any one pulley on a PUP.Īdditionally, an aircraft cable really moves very little so only a short section of cable is moving over each pulley all the time and that short section is the one subject to wear - the rest of the cable is simply a connector. That said, an aircraft cable is subject to almost constant movement when in flight whereas your PUP goes up and stays up for a camping trip and then goes down and often stays down. Galvanized do the same thing but the zinc is considered a natural lubricant between the fibers and so aircraft use of stainless control cables are on the wane. We used stainless cable BUT recent studies have shown that stainless steel cables are more prone to fraying than stainless due to the individual wires rubbing on each other. I was an aviation maintenance officer and maintenance test pilot in the army, flying fixed and rotary wing aircraft. I can certainly clean up the frayed ends with some rigger's tape, if that's the only issue.The break strength of 1/8" 304 stainless is 1760# - galvanized steel will be a bit stronger, if you think that's not enough. And his enthusiasm was noted by many of us.īut I'm wondering if the "hammer smash" method of crimping provides the necessary and expected strength for the crimps, or if I can look forward to having one or more unexpectedly fail, dropping the stern of the dinghy unceremoniously into my wake without warning while underway, causing unwanted excitement, and possibly great expense. I asked him whether he should be using the crimper and his response was "My method is better." Blocking the entire isle with this project and his expansive claw hammer stokes he proceeded to finish the project for me. While he made the first loop he picked up a hammer and got onto the floor and smashed the aluminum crimp flat, leaving the slightly frayed end of the wire without a cap ("I don't use those, just put some electrical tape around it."). I'm concerned about the technique the Associate used and whether the resulting strength of the crimps can be relied upon. ![]() They, somewhat roughly, came out like I needed. Total cost for ~3' of 1/4" stainless wire and 2 packages of aluminum crimps were $6.50, labor was free. Sweet! So I asked a Home Depot associate for assistance in putting together the two pieces that I needed, and he made them for me on the spot. ![]() I dropped by Home Depot to find they had 1/4" uncoated stainless wire for a reasonable price (380 lb working weight for the wire and the dinghy will be slung from 4 points, so the working weight at each point will be some fraction of the 131 lbs), as well as the aluminum crimps, and a wire cutter and crimper to use. I have no experience working with braided wire. Dingy + motor = 131 lbs (I leave the 4hp motor attached while in the davits). So I purchased a new dinghy this week and needed stainless braided wire crimped with a loop on each end to go onto my transom u-bolts, and the other loop to go to a stainless O ring which is connected to my davit hoist.
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